Love, Life, & Beyond

The summer temperatures seem to rise every year in India with each month bringing some record-breaking high. While Hyderabad was literally roasting, we had planned a quick trip to Mumbai. I never thought the day would come when I would say, “Mumbai weather is quite nice,” in May! Since we had no other travel plans for the summer vacations, and got tempted by the cooler temperatures of Mahabaleshwar, we decided to go for a weekend trip. 

Nestled in the verdant hills of the Western Ghats, Mahabaleshwar beckons travellers seeking respite from the sweltering heat of Mumbai, especially during the month of May. This quaint hill station is a beloved getaway known for its berries, lush landscapes, and refreshing climate. So we packed our bags, booked a cab and headed for some much needed change of scene.

When we used to live in Mumbai, pre-child, we have had the pleasure to visit many surrounding towns and cities. On this trip, we were short on time and since we had seen most of the view points before, we wanted to spend our time taking it easy. Our son was most excited about swimming every day of the stay. 

Mumbai to Mahabaleshwar Road Trip

Once you exit the concrete urban space of Mumbai, the journey is quite a scenic one. The approximately 250 kilometres stretch gives you some gorgeous views of the Western Ghats. These would be even more lush during the rains, but it wasn’t bad in May either. 

Along the way, trees with vibrant yellow and orange blooms were a sight for sore eyes. However, the narrow roads leading towards Wai and Mahabaleshwar can result in a sluggish pace, even during the off-season. With only one road available, congestion is inevitable, often causing delays behind other vehicles throughout the day. I dread to think of the overcrowding during peak season.

There are numerous food courts scattered along the route, offering decent restroom facilities. Notably, Starbucks stands out with its dedicated washrooms, which are usually cleaner to the common facilities available elsewhere.

Mahabaleshwar, in May, had warm daytime temperatures, tempered by cool shade. However, to our pleasant surprise, evenings brought a pleasant drop in temperature, with the mercury dipping to as low as 18 degrees Celsius. 

It took us approximately 6 to 7 hours each way with two quick food stops. (Our driver was very particular about sticking to the speed limit, which is a good thing as we saw many damaged vehicles on the way.) It took longer coming into Mumbai as evening traffic had already built up by the time we reached the city. 

Things to See in Mahabaleshwar

Elephant Head and Kate’s Point

This viewpoint offers a beautiful view of the Krishna River Valley, however, I couldn’t make out the resemblance of the cliff to an elephant’s head. The river was not in its full glory during the summer, but I can imagine how the place would thrive during the monsoons.

The various viewing points along the cliff edge have stone barricades, but it was common to see visitors trying to stand right at the edge for pictures. We stayed safely away from the edges. No picture is worth that risk.

There are many vendors who have set up props for taking pictures. You need to pay to take pictures with them so make sure you fix the rate before you start clicking away. I found this tourist trap loud and avoidable, but people have to make a living somehow, I guess!

For those seeking adventure, horse riding is also available here. The horses looked notably healthier compared to horses in other tourist destinations. Again, we preferred to avoid this in the hot sun.

Old Mahabaleshwar

You’ll need to pay for an entry ticket to explore old Mahabaleshwar, which includes sites such as the Mahabaleshwar Temple and the Arthur’s Seat and Elphinstone Points, which are surrounded by the deep Savitri gorge. 

At Elphinstone Point, be prepared for a climb down numerous stairs to reach the viewpoint. (Arthur’s Seat is in the adjacent lane offering a similar view without the stairs.) The climb is made easier by the snack vendors offering a variety of treats, including chaat, coconut water, and ice lollies.

This spot is famous for floating of light objects. If you throw light items like a bottle cap in the valley, it floats up due to the air pressure. Unfortunately, some visitors took this to mean they can throw their trash like plastic bags and bottles to be carried away by the strong winds then litter wherever it lands. 

We also spotted a green tree snake perfectly blending into its surroundings; however, some individuals felt compelled to shake the tree vigorously to provoke a reaction. Why do people do this?

Things to Do in Mahabaleshwar

Mahabaleshwar boasts an array of attractions that cater to every traveller’s interests. Here are some activities you can try during your trip:

• There are numerous adventure and play zones in the town offering go-karting and other activities. Make sure they follow proper safety protocols, as most of them do not.
• Shop in the market area for chikkis (peanut brittle), fudge, leather shoes and bags, and particularly the Kolhapuri slippers. 
• In season during the cooler months, some farms offer you the chance to pick strawberries from their farms. An excellent way to spend your morning.

• Vintage Miles is a bike museum displaying hundreds of vintage motor bikes.
• For some reason, there are a number of wax museums in and around Mahabaleshwar. We didn’t visit any, but it’s a good indoor activity when the sun is at its peak.
• For the adventurous soul, there’s the option of assisted paragliding in Panchgani.

• During the rainy season, a short trek to Lingmala Waterfall would be a refreshing way to spend the day. Rest of the year, the water dries up but you can still walk there if you’re interested.
• Venna Lake offers boating if you want to spend some time just relaxing.
• If you’re in town for a few days in September or October, take a day trip to Satara to visit the Kaas Valley and Thoseghar Waterfall.

• Sajjangad Fort, also in Satara, is the final resting home of Sant Ramdas, a philosopher and poet. You’ll need to climb stairs but the view from the top will be worth it.  

Where to Stay and Eat in Mahabaleshwar

Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani, and Wai offer a range of accommodation options to suit every budget and preference, from luxury resorts to budget-friendly guesthouses and adventure parks. As fun as it is to be spontaneous, it’s advisable to book your accommodation in advance. We encountered a girls’ trip regretting their lack of proper planning.

We stayed at the Marriott Courtyard, which had breathtaking views of the hills and a stunning sunset panorama from its infinity pool deck. While the hotel offers various activities such as kids’ car rides, pool boat, archery, and stargazing, they all require additional payment per use. 

They have one restaurant and a poolside bar. Food was nothing to write home about. The kebabs we ordered at the poolside were ice cold by the time it came to our table from the main restaurant kitchen.

In our earlier trip to the region, we had stayed at Rutu Farms in Wai which had clean rooms and excellent Maharashtrian food. At the time of our stay (many years ago) they had two boisterous German Shepherds who loved to run around the lawns. They were caged at times depending on the comfort level of guests at the time. They also have a kitchen garden that supplies some of the produce to the kitchens.

We have also previously stayed at Ravine Hotel in Panchgani that overlooks the valley where paragliding takes place, and found it excellent.

It’s important to mention that most hotels do not provide accommodation for accompanying drivers. Please check beforehand and make arrangements.

Around the town, numerous vendors offer fresh berries, carrots, coconut, and, of course, delicious chaat, adding to the local flavour and vibrancy of the area.

For lunch, we went to Le Meridian’s Latest Recipe restaurant, where we were impressed by both the quality of the food and the attentive service. The hotel also has an adventure zone and cycles in its grounds. We skipped this as our son was more keen on swimming in the hotel pool.

Mapro garden is undoubtedly one of the oldest and the most famous food stops here. The ice cream and milkshakes are heavenly. They have lunch items on their menu too.

As our weekend getaway drew to a close, we were not looking forward to a day-long drive back in the heat. But, we bid farewell to the calm and made our way back to the vibrant chaos that is Bombay!